10 strongest carabiners! Introducing how to choose and how to see the strength

The carabiner for mountaineering can be used outdoors without climbing. There are also fashionable outdoor tools like carabiners such as key chains, but this time we will feature a strong carabiner that can be used for mountain climbing. Introducing the 10 strongest carabiners carefully selected, as well as the points to determine the shape and strength according to the application!

Choose the shape of the carabiner according to the intended use

A carabiner is an essential item for mountaineering, which is useful for climbing through ropes and slings and gearing. Strength and safety are very important, especially when climbing steep slopes and cliffs, as they support the lifeline Zile. The shape of the carabiner is roughly divided into three. Knowing the characteristics and uses of each will help you climb, lift and lower your luggage, and rescue in the unlikely event!

The most mainstream “offset D type”

A modified version of the D-shaped carabiner in the shape of the letter D. Since it is strong against impact and has a good reputation for strength, the mainstream carabiner used for mountaineering has become the offset D type in recent years. High strength can be obtained because there is a force point that supports ropes etc. in the spinal column (span) on the opposite side of the carabiner opening (gate). It is convenient to clip the rope during rock climbing or use it as a fulcrum.

“HMS (pear) type” with a wide load direction

A type with a different top and bottom width and shaped like a pear. Since the opening is wide open, it is easy to insert ropes and gears. It has a wide load direction and maintains strength, and can be used for difficult climbing and general mountain climbing. The shape is all-round and easy to use, so it is recommended for the first carabiner for beginners.

“Oval (O) type” that goes well with thick tools

An early type of carabiner in the shape of the letter O. Since both corners are semi-circular and wide, it is excellent for mounting wide tools. You can bundle the tools used for climbing and attach them to the harness, and you can also use it for lifting and lowering luggage and rescue. However, keep in mind that the strength is slightly weaker than other shapes, and the threaded rope is easy to move.

I want to identify the strongest carabiner! How to see the strength

Let’s pay attention to the strength and safety of the carabiner in order to carefully select the carabiner that can be called the strongest!

Choose one with UIAA and CE notation

The first thing to look at is whether the carabiner has the UIAA and CE notations. UIAA is a label that meets the safety standards of the International Climbing and Mountain Federation, and CE is a label that meets the safety standards of Europe. This notation is always included in items of famous brands and items sold at mountaineering shops. Not only carabiner but also Zile etc. have UIAA and CE notation, so please check at the time of purchase.

Carabiner strength check

Next, let’s see how strong the carabiner is. The display “kN⇆ number, ↕︎ number, open gate mark number” on the main unit is the load capacity value. kN is read as kilonewton, and the direction of the arrow “⇆” is left and right, “↕︎” is up and down, and “open gate mark” is the state where the opening is open.

In the above carabiner image, it can be read as “kN⇆25, ↕︎10, open gate mark 7”. That is, the left and right strength is 25 kilonewtons, the top and bottom strength is 10 kilonewtons, and the opening is 7 kilonewtons. For mountaineering and climbing, if the left and right strength is 24 kilonewtons or more, you can use it as a fulcrum with confidence.

Pay attention to the fragile load direction

Even with a strong carabiner, there is a load direction (major axis) that exerts the strongest strength and a load direction (minor axis) that is the weakest. With minor axes, there is a risk of damage long before the display strength is reached. While climbing, pay attention to the correct orientation of the carabiner and be careful not to load anything other than the major axis.

Other points to see

Whether there is a safety ring, size, weight, and ease of use are also important points to select the strongest carabiner!

Should I have a safety ring? Lock shape

For dangerous mountaineering such as chains, you need a carabiner with a safety ring that will never pull out the rope. There are two types of lock shapes, and the screw lock type locks by turning the safety ring like a screw. The auto lock type is automatically locked. If the opening is used infrequently or if the rope should not come off, a carabiner with a safety ring is a good choice.

Size and weight

It is important that the carabiner for mountaineering can be operated with one hand. It is recommended that the size is a size that can be grasped with one hand and the weight is as light as possible. Light aluminum can be used for general mountaineering, but duralumin can be used for hard climbing.

How comfortable is it? Can it be opened and closed with one hand?

The ease of use of the carabiner also affects the safety of climbing. Is it easy to open and close the opening with one hand, and how is it different from wearing gloves? Let’s actually touch and operate it at the time of purchase and check until you are satisfied whether it can be used safely in mountain climbing.

10 strongest carabiners

We have carefully selected the strongest carabiner in consideration of strength, safety, size, weight, and ease of use!

[Offset D type] Black Diamond Hotforge Screw Gate

A screw lock type carabiner made by hot pressurization. Because it is lightweight, it is easy to hold and clip with one hand, and it goes well with personal anchors connected in a chain. The key lock nose is hard to get caught and can be used for all kinds of mountain climbing.

【Basic information】

Size: 16 x 4 x 12 cm

Weight: 49g

Brand name: Black diamond

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Hot forging method

Light and easy to clip

Screw lock nose that is hard to get caught

[Offset D type] Petzl Spirit Straight

A carabiner that is lighter due to the lightening structure and is perfect for sports climbing. The straight gate version uses a key lock system with no pins in the opening to make it easier to clip to the anchor.

【Basic information】

Size: 7.62 x 20.32 x 25.4 cm

Weight: 39g

Brand name: Petzl

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Lighter weight due to lightening structure

Key lock system without gate pins

Great for sport climbing

[Offset D type] DMM Belay Master

A highly safe carabiner made for belayers, who keep their safety when climbing. Uses a super nylon locking system that is shaped to prevent forgetting to tighten the safety ring. It prevents the carabiner from rotating and can always be used in the correct load position.

【Basic information】

Size: 5.08 x 15.24 x 10.16 cm

Weight: 90.72g

Brand name: DMM

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Super nylon locking system

Prevents rotation and ensures the correct load position

Extremely safe for belayers

[HMS type] Lock Terix HMS Deco Quick Lock

With an auto-lock type safety ring. A pear-shaped carabiner that is lightweight and highly durable, and can be used for all-round climbing and climbing. The crimson design with a strong metallic feel is a fusion of sculptural beauty and functional beauty.

【Basic information】

Size: 10cm

Weight: 82g

Brand name: Rock Terix

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Auto lock type

Metallic and functional design

Can be used all round

[HMS type] Mammut Wall HMS 2040-01251

Mammut’s pear-shaped carabiner developed for mountain attacks. Although it is compact and lightweight, it is equipped with a screw lock type safety function, and it fully functions as the latest device that the belayer can use with confidence.

【Basic information】

Size: 10.5 x 7.0 cm

Weight: 65g

Brand name: Mamut

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Developed for all mountainous areas

Screw lock type

The latest belay device

[HMS type] Mammut Screw Gate Bionic HMS

A carabiner equipped with the latest technology by beam technology. The body made by hot pressurization is light and durable, and has a screw lock type safety ring. The pear type has a large radius of the bent part and can be used comfortably in all mountaineering scenes.

【Basic information】

Size: 15 x 10 x 10 cm

Weight: 72g

Brand name: Mamut

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Hot forging method

Screw lock type

Wide range of support from general mountaineering to belaying

[HMS type] DMM (DMM) Boa HMS

Carabiner famous for the highest quality in the world of British EDC gear maker DMM. The hot forging method creates a light and durable body, and boasts a strength of 30 Newtons. The safety ring is a triple auto lock type.

【Basic information】

Size: 10cm

Weight: 115g

Brand name: DMM

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Hot forging method

Triple auto lock type

One of the strongest in the world, 30 Newton

[Oval type] Rock Terix Puri Carabiner

An O-shaped carabiner to which a small pulley for climbing can be attached. It is a palm-sized screw lock type and is solidly made. It can be used for mountaineering, climbing, and hanging hammocks.

【Basic information】

Size: 11cm

Weight: 75g

Brand name: Rock Terix

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Pulley can be attached

Screw lock type

Convenient for hanging hammocks

[Oval type] Black diamond oval key lock

An O-shaped carabiner that uses a key lock gate that does not get caught and is easy to use with one hand. Simple and functional design. The symmetrical shape makes it difficult to shift, making it perfect for lifting and lowering luggage and racking when climbing.

【Basic information】

Size: 18 x 2 x 12 cm

Weight: 45g

Brand name: Black diamond

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Key lock gate without catching

Easy to use due to its symmetrical shape

Ideal for lifting and lowering luggage and racking

[Oval type] Petzl OK

A lightweight aluminum carabiner with high grip. The safety ring is a screw lock type, and when it is not locked, you will see a red warning sign. With a smooth design with excellent operability, it is suitable for connecting pulleys.

【Basic information】

Size: 14 x 10 x 2 cm

Weight: 70g

Brand name: Petzl

[Recommended points of Shieldon]

Made of light and easy-to-grip aluminum

Screw lock type

Excellent operability, ideal for connecting pulleys

Find the strongest carabiner that is easy to use according to your purpose

A carabiner for mountaineering is an important and life-threatening tool. From general mountaineering to hard climbing, carefully check the shape, function, strength and ease of use that suits your purpose. Get the strongest carabiner for you and enjoy safe climbing!

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