10 Recommended Popularity Rankings for Mountaineering Carabiner

If you’re looking for beginner outdoor gear, my recommendation is that the Carabiner is a must.

“Carabiner” is useful when you pass each other on a mountain trail or when you pass a ladder. I would like to have one as a support tool and mountain climbing that follows steep routes and lead climbing performed by a pair of people. However, there are various types of carabiners in sporting goods stores, so many people may be wondering which one to use.

So this time, I will tell you how to choose a carabiner for mountain climbing and introduce popular items in the street in a ranking format. Please find your favorite carabiner, “This is it!”, And use it as a companion for your next climb.

How to choose a carabiner for mountaineering

Here are four points to check when choosing a carabiner for mountaineering.

Choose the shape of the carabiner according to your application

The shape of the carabiner is roughly divided into three. For the most common mountaineering, it doesn’t make much difference which one you choose. However, if you understand the characteristics of each shape, it will help ensure safety on routes that pass through chains and ladders and for self-rescue in case of emergency.

Recommended for installing comprehensive tools! “O type (oval type)”

If you want to use it when installing a wide sling, we recommend the “O type (oval type).” The O type is oval. Compared to other carabiners, the corners are semicircular and wide, so it is more stable when a comprehensive tool is attached.

Due to its easy-to-turn shape, it is common to bundle tools for climbing and attach them to the harness. It is also often used when loads are applied from both sides, such as lifting and lowering luggage and rescue.

However, the strength is weaker than other shapes because the point of emphasis is right in the middle of the carabiner. Also, because of the obtuse angle, let’s keep in mind that the rope that is passed through is easy to move.

Especially recommended for beginners! Easy-to-use “HMS type (pear type).”

If you are a beginner and don’t know which one to buy, we especially recommend the carabiner called “HMS type (pear type).” It looks like a pear, and the width differs significantly between the top and bottom. Thanks to its shape, the gate (opening part) open wide, making it easy to insert ropes and tools.

The wider side has two corners. Compared to the oval type, where force is applied in the middle of the top and bottom of the carabiner, the load direction is more comprehensive, and the strength can be maintained even if force is applied in various directions. ..

For climbing, it helps rappel and lower down by using a rope tied like a munter hitch, but it will be helpful to have one for general mountain climbing since it is a carabiner with easy-to-use characteristics.

Has a reputation for strength! “Offset D type.”

We recommend a carabiner with a shape called “offset D type for those who are worried about strength.” The offset D type is a modified version of the D-shaped carabiner in the form of the letter D, and the corners that support the rope etc. are close to the spinal column called “spine” on the opposite side of the carabiner gate, and the load direction If is decided, it will be proud of high strength.

Recommended for use as a fulcrum or clipping ropes during rock climbing.

Let’s check the type of gate based on the opening and closing frequency and safety

The carabiner has a gate through which ropes and the like can pass. There are several types of this gate, so let’s take a quick look.

“Carabiner with safety ring” in situations where it should never come off

If you are absolutely in trouble if the rope or sling that has passed through the carabiner comes off, use a “carabiner with a safety ring” that has a lock on the gate.

safety outdoor gear is very important in the outdoors, especially in the high risk outdoor areas such as rock climbing.

For example, in a steep place such as a chain, if the rope used for safety is pulled out of the carabiner, it may develop into the worst situation, such as falling. If the gate is locked, you can enjoy climbing more safely.

Carabiner with safety ring includes “screw gate” that opens and closes by turning a screw, and “auto-lock gate” that locks automatically. Some auto-lock gates push a button when opening the gate, and some raise the safety ring upwards, so it is best to select one according to the ease of opening and closing and the frequency of opening and closing.

“Free carabiner” if you open and close frequently.

If you use it when you frequently open and close the gate or where there is no problem even if you do not have a safety ring, we recommend the “free carabiner,” which has no lock on the gate.

The gate of the free carabiner is a rod-shaped straight “straight gate” that is easy to hang on a fulcrum such as a hanger, a “vent gate” with a gentle slope that makes it easy to turn a rope, and a wire gate for weight reduction. There are “wire gates” and so on.

A wire gate with a light gate makes it challenging to open the gate when there is an impact, but it is a fragile item against friction such as rugged rocks. In addition, the bent gate, which it easy to hang a rope, has the disadvantage that the entrance is easy to open at the same time.

As you can see, each carabiner has its advantages and disadvantages, so be sure to examine and select it carefully.

Size and weight also affect the ease of handling

It’s a good idea to choose a carabiner that can be operated with one hand. The Size you choose depends on whether you open and close it with your bare hands or wear gloves. It will be challenging to operate if it is too big or too small, and you may drop the carabiner, so be careful.

Also, a light carabiner is recommended. Carabiner varies from around 20g to nearly 100g. Especially when you bring a lot of carabiners for climbing, the real difference is several hundred grams.

If you want to make your luggage as light as possible, pay attention to its weight. However, please note that if it is too light, you will not feel like holding it, and it will be easy to drop.

If you make a mistake, it will be fatal! Let’s check the safety

Many carabiners are sold as fashionable items. Choosing these for mountaineering can be life-threatening. Check the following two points so that you don’t choose the wrong one.

Check the safety standard display.

When choosing a carabiner for mountaineering, be sure to check that it meets safety standards. If you look closely at the carabiner, you will notice that various letters, numbers, symbols, etc., are written on the spine (spine side).

First, let’s see if characters such as “UIAA” and “CE” are written. Each one shows whether it meets the International Climbing and Mountain Federation standards and European standards, so check it out if you use it for mountaineering.

Let’s also look at the strength (breaking load)

Those sold for mountaineering and climbing have the strength that can be used for those purposes, but it is also good to check the power (breaking load). Breaking load means that the carabiner will be damaged when the load is applied.

In addition to the safety standard display, the carabiner has three arrows, left and right, up and down, and a symbol that the carabiner gate is open, indicating the vertical axis, horizontal axis, and strength carabiner when the gate is open. I will.

The unit is kN (kilonewton). Carabiner for mountaineering generally has a breaking load of about 24kN (approximately 2.4t) on the vertical axis. The breaking load when the horizontal axis and gate are open is lower than the vertical axis.

Let’s carry a carabiner dedicated to mountaineering for mountaineering!

You should avoid using a carabiner, which is sold as a fashion item and has no description, for mountaineering. When buying, remember to look for Professional Outdoor Gear.

In addition, there are safety standard indications such as CE, and even if the breaking load on the long axis is 24 kN, some say “Not for climbing,” “Not for climbing,” etc. Please look and choose.

Carabiner for mountaineering: Recommended popularity ranking

We are introducing a popular mountaineering carabiner in ranking format. The ranking is based on the best-selling orders (as of May 11, 2020) of each EC site, such as Amazon, Rakuten, and Walmart Shopping.

No.1

Dax Cyclide Double DK057

The price is reasonable! It can be used in a wide range of applications

Mountain Dax carabiner series, color-coded according to the type of carabiner gate. High quality and affordable prices are attractive. Since the class can be identified at a glance by color, it is possible to make a quick decision and use it properly.

The red color is a double lock type so that it can be firmly fixed and the gate can be easily opened and closed. The strength is slightly lower than the D type, but the point is that it is highly versatile. It is especially suitable for use when loads are applied from both sides, such as lifting or lowering luggage.

Also, since the corners are semicircular and wide, it is perfect for bundling tools and attaching them to the harness. This price will be good with this quality. If you’re wondering which carabiner to use, this is the product you want to choose.

Type: Oval type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: auto-lock

Size: —

Weight: 83g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 25kn, horizontal axis 8kN, open gate 7kN

 

No.2

EDELRID Pure slider ER72002

Super lightweight! Recommended for lateral movement of bouldering

An item by the German manufacturer Edelrid, known for its high standard climbing gear. The H-shaped structure makes it super lightweight at 43g, but it has a stopper that locks the gate, preventing accidents that open during work. It is also recommended for traverses that move laterally on the wall.

Because the hook is large and easy to use, it is also attractive that it is easy to work even with gloves on. In addition, the slide gate makes it easy to open and close, enabling quick clipping.

According to word of mouth on an EC site, “light, durable, and easy to use.” The price is set high, but you can expect quality that is commensurate with the price.

Type: HMS type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: —

Size: 58 x 100 mm

Weight: 45g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 23kN, horizontal axis 8kN, open gate 8kN

 

No.3

PETZL AMD M34ARL

It features a smooth D-shape. Perfect for connecting to appliances

A locking carabiner with the highest strength among Petzl carabiner, D-shaped shape suitable for connecting the harness to the equipment. Above all, it goes well with equipment such as lowering devices and work positioning lanyards.

In addition, by adopting a key lock system, it is also a point that it is less likely to get caught in other equipment during operation. The twist-lock can be unlocked simply by turning the locking sleeve. It is easy to operate with one hand, so it is also recommended to use the gate frequently.

Type: Offset D type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: auto-lock

Size: —

Weight: 75g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 27kN, horizontal axis 8kN, open gate 8kN

 

No.4

Dax Otoshin Double DK053

Lots of ideas to make it easier to handle

The feature is that the gate part is color-coded. Since it is easy to check, it is possible to work more accurately even when quick judgment is required. This red product is an easy-to-use double lock gate type. You can easily open and close the lock because you can slide it with your finger to open the gate.

According to one word of mouth, “it is lightweight, and the lock part is solid” and “the gate opens and closes smoothly.” Reasonable price is also a point though the quality is high. It might be a good idea to buy them in bulk and color-code them according to the purpose.

Type: Offset D type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: auto-lock

Size: —

Weight: 80g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 27kN, horizontal axis 8kN, open gate 9kN

 

No.5

Metolius Gatekeeper ME10010

With a wire gate, recommended for belay beginners

If you’re looking for a belay carabiner, we recommend the gatekeeper from the American climbing gear brand Metrius. The unique structure with a wire gate on the body of the carabiner prevents the carabiner set in the belay loop from rotating and prevents it from being used in minor axes.

Thanks to this wire gate, you don’t even have to manually check that the carabiner is correctly positioned during the belay. It’s easy to handle, so it’s also recommended for beginners of belaying. With an autoblock function, it goes perfectly with belay devices.

Type: HMS type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: screw

Size: 118×64.8mm

Weight: 76g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 22kN, horizontal axis 7kN, open gate 7kN

 

No.6

SIMOND Spider HMS SI79811

Accurate and quick clipping is possible.

The most distinctive feature of this product is the innovative nose shape that boasts a more accurate and quick clipping performance. It is also a point that it is robust against pulling due to Simon’s original spider system. It’s smooth, doesn’t get caught, and is easy to handle.

In addition, it comes with a BLC system that allows you to keep the carabiner in the correct orientation by clipping the loop to the stainless bar. It prevents the rope from shifting in the horizontal axis direction and is also suitable for fixing belay loops.

Type: HMS type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: screw

Size: 103 x 66 mm

Weight: 72g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 21kN, horizontal axis 9kN, open gate 6kN

 

No.7

PETZL SMD M39A SL

Compact and super lightweight. Various uses are possible

A D-type carabiner is featuring a wide range of applications and excellent handling. Perfect for tasks that require quick opening and closing, such as connecting to anchors, attaching to pulleys and lanyard tips. A small hole associated with a tie block or other device that prevents the device from falling is convenient.

Due to the H-shaped cross-section structure with a groove in the frame, the weight is as light as 46g, and it demonstrates a firm grip even when working with gloves. This carabiner is perfect for reducing the weight even a little or when working at heights.

Type: Offset D type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: screw

Size: —

Weight: 46g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 23kN, horizontal axis 8kN, open gate 7kN

 

No.8

DMM (DMM) Zodiac A823

The carabiner is light but has excellent strength

Carabiner Zodiac from DMM has a history of more than 30 years as a British outdoor gear manufacturer. The power is the vertical axis, and the horizontal axis 12kN and open gate 12kN, and the strength of the minor axis is overwhelming.

Another point is that it is highly resistant to pushing open the gate. Moreover, the i-Beam structure makes it resistant to twisting and reduces weight. This product is recommended for those who are looking for a light and strong carabiner.

Type: Offset D type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: auto-lock

Size: 66 x 114 mm

Weight: 79g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 32kN, horizontal axis 12kN, open gate 12kN

 

No.9

Konyo Aluminum Carabiner Rescue TAL130S

Vertical axis strength 30kN! Recommended for those who are particular about strength

TOWA Rescue is recommended for those who want a strong carabiner. The strength of the vertical axis is about 3 tons, and as the name suggests, it is a highly reliable product that can be used at rescue sites. It is also easy to handle because it has a groove where the rope fits snugly.

Type: Offset D type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: screw

Size: 11.2 x 7.2 cm

Weight: 80g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 30kN, horizontal axis 7kN

 

No.10

BlackDiamond Oval Keylock BD10034

Symmetrical and recommended for unloading big walls

A carabiner produced by Black Diamond, a mountaineering equipment brand founded in the United States in 1989. Since it is balanced, it is difficult to shift, and it is perfect for unloading big walls and racking gears. The matte silver color is also very stylish.

Type: O type

Gate shape: straight

Lock shape: —

Size: —

Weight: 58g

Breaking load: Vertical axis 23kN, horizontal axis 9kN, open gate 7kN

 

Check out other mountaineering goods!

I introduced the carabiner this time, but there are various other items that I would like to prepare for mountain climbing. The following articles also present gloves and ropes, so be sure to check them out.

 

Check out the top-selling carabiner rankings for mountaineering!

For your reference, please check the top-selling order of mountaineering carabiner at:

https://www.shieldon.net

https://www.facebook.com/ShieldonCutlery

https://www.instagram.com/shieldon_knives_and_tools/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_Dz–HODWHFY4AaUF0z11Q

https://twitter.com/Shieldonknives1/

https://shieldonknivesandtools.tumblr.com/

https://www.linkedin.com/company/72285346/

https://www.pinterest.com/shieldonknivesandtools/

 

Summary

We have introduced the points when choosing a carabiner for mountaineering and popular products in a ranking format. How was it?

 

A carabiner can be life-threatening if you choose the wrong one, even if it is not for climbing or climbing, which is problematic. Please consider purchasing while carefully considering not only safety but also whether you can use it reasonably.