ice axes | Essentials for mountaineering in the snow! How to choose and use the length and type

PETZL “GLACIER LITERIDE”

The ice ax is indispensable outdoor gear for climbing snowy mountains. Many types are on sale, from popular manufacturers such as Petzl and Grivel to lightweight and leashed ones. Here, we would like to introduce the recommendations and points of the selection of ice axes carefully selected by mountaineering enthusiast photographer Yuki Yamazaki and the editorial department.

How to choose an ice ax

Suitable length / shaft shape / weight

From here, I will introduce the points when choosing an ice ax.

Name of each part of the ice ax

What is an ice ax?

An ice ax is one of the climbing tools with a pickaxe-shaped metal fitting at the tip of a cane. Used to make scaffolding on ice and snow. First of all, I will introduce each part of the ice ax.

Name of each part of the ice ax

head

The entire head above the ice ax refers to. You can maintain walking balance by walking with the head like a cane.

shaft

Refers to the long handle of the ice ax. Some shafts are straight and some are curved.

pick

Refers to the pointed tip of the head. In an unstable system or when sliding down, the pick is pierced into the ice and snow to stabilize the body.

blade

Refers to the blade on the opposite side of the pick. Also known as Adds. It is used to dig snow when shaving ice and snow to make a scaffolding or make a resting place on a steep slope.

spike

Refers to the pointed part at the bottom of the shaft. Also known as Spitze or stone tip. While climbing, you can use the ice ax as a wand by sticking the spikes into the snow surface.

Choose by length

The size that suits you oxtos “Original Ice Ax”

Octos “Original Pickaxe” is a mountaineering pickaxe that meets the standards for the general vertical running of the International Climbing and Mountain Federation, so it is suitable for snowy mountain climbing.

When choosing an ice ax (snow ax) for the first time, you must first understand how to use it. The ice ax is a so-called “wand” that is used mainly in winter mountains.

In summer mountains, trekking poles are mainly used, but in winter mountains, where the risk of slipping is higher, it is necessary to have something that can be used as a cane firmly on the snow surface. Some people have a short ice ax in the winter mountains, but Fushi also mistakes it for an ice climbing ax.

Ice axes come in a variety of lengths, but there is one guide to which length to choose. First, hold the jagged blade (pick) on the head of the ice ax with the front side facing you.

The ice ax that suits you is the length at which the lower pointed part (spike or Spitze) comes around your ankle when you extend your arm straight down.

If it is long, it will drag, and if it is short, it will be difficult to insert it into the snow surface, so choose the length that suits you.

Choose by type

Two types, one with a straight shaft and the other with a curved shaft

Grivel Pickaxe G Zero Black 66cm GVPIG0S [Genuine Japan]

If you go to a mountaineering store, you will find a wide variety of ice axes. A sickle-like short, large curve. This is an “ice ax” used for ice climbing, so it cannot be used as a general ice ax.

There are two types of ice ax, one with a straight handle (shaft) and one with a slightly curved shaft near the head.

If the shaft is bent when you insert the pick into a snow wall, there will be a gap between the part you hold and the snow surface, so you can insert it into snow or ice with a lighter force. Also, when you catch a pick on a rock and climb it, your fist does not hit the rock wall, so it is easy to climb.

When purchasing for the first time, it is better to prioritize the convenience of use as a wand and purchase one with a straight shaft.

Choose by weight

The weight that suits you

PETZL “GLACIER LITERIDE”

Glacier Light Ride is as light as 300g. For beginners, if you use an ice ax that weighs less than 500g, your arms will not get tired even if you hold it for a long time.

Even pickaxes of the same length vary in weight depending on the brand and model. Climbers who are used to some extent often choose a slightly heavier ice ax because it is easy to drive into the snow wall.

Beginners tend to be exhausted by the weight of the luggage they carry, so we recommend the ones that are as light as possible. If you have an ice ax that weighs less than 500g, you won’t get tired of your arms even if you hold it for a long time.

Types and usage of ice ax

Mountaineering essentials with snow and ice

An ice ax can be said to be a must-have item for mountaineering in the snow. It is a tool that can be used as a wand, as a brake when it slips, or as a snow shovel. Ice axes can be divided into the following types according to the purpose of mountain climbing.

For vertical running

People who climb winter with an ice ax

The ice ax is a must-have item for winter mountaineering.

Vertical mountain climbing that walks along the mountain ridge. The ice ax for vertical running uses a type with a straight shaft like a wand.

For steep slopes

Climbing a snowy mountain on a steep slope

For scaffolding and steep slopes with mixed ice and snow mixed in rocks, use a type with a slightly bent shaft.

For ice climbing

Ice climbing

For ice climbing, such as driving an ice pick at the tip into an ice wall, use a type with a short shaft and a bending angle.

Grivel “Optional parts for ice ax Spring leash belt GVPJ04916”

* Image of how to hold an ice ax

All types are used as a wand while maintaining balance. It is mainly used to maintain balance by holding it like a wand. You can pierce the ground with strong winds or poor footing to support it, or pierce the mountainside with the ridge.

Hold the pick part forward when walking up or on a flat surface, and hold the pick (the pointed part of the head) forward when walking downhill. Doing so will prevent it from slipping down in the event of a fall.

Buy leash and pick cover together

If you buy an ice ax, you want to buy a leash and a pick cover (guard) together. Leashes in particular are necessary to prevent the ice ax from being washed away in the snowy mountains. If you lose the ice ax in the snowy mountains, you may not be able to act.

There are two types of the leash, one is to hang it on your shoulder and the other is to wrap it around your wrist. When you change the ice ax, the leash on your shoulder is smoother.

When attaching the pick cover to the backpack, use it so as not to damage the surroundings, but some backpacks can be attached to hide the pick, so please check it.

I recommend this article to everyone!

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