Carabiner for Mountaineering

Carabiner For Mountaineering 01, Shieldon

“Carabiner” is an outdoor tool that can fix the rope when climbing or climbing. It is one of the very useful support tools to have some. Therefore, I will explain the points when choosing a carabiner for mountain climbing, including the function and design.


In this article, we will introduce how to choose a carabiner for mountaineering and recommended products. In addition, there is a link to the latest popularity ranking on the mail order site, so please check the best-selling items and word-of-mouth.


Type and shape of the carabiner

There are several “types” of mountaineering carabiners. Each shape has different characteristics, so be sure to check which type you have when purchasing.


HMS type: Large opening makes it easy to put in and take out the rope

Carabiner For Mountaineering 02, Shieldon

MAMMUT “Bionic Mythos (2210-01520)”


A carabiner shaped like a pear. It is used for belaying and is characterized by its compatibility with ATC and eight rings. Also, the wide gate makes it easy for the rope to get caught.


Offset D type: High strength and a mainstream carabiner!

Carabiner For Mountaineering 03, Shieldon

Metolius “Inferno II Wire Gate Carabiner (ME10051)”


Offset D type is known for its high strength. It looks like a modified version of the letter D. Since the position where the rope is applied (PowerPoint) and the spine (the part of the rod on the opposite side of the gate) is close, it has the advantage of being strong against impact when dropped.


O type (oval type): For wide slings and a hanging luggage

Carabiner For Mountaineering 04, Shieldon

MAMMUT “Wall Micro Oval (2040-01271)”


The oval shape, which has an oval shape, allows stable mounting of wide tools such as slings and pulleys. Compared to other shapes, it has no corners and has the same shape on both sides, so if there is the movement of the fulcrum on both sides, it is easy to respond to that movement.


How to choose a carabiner for mountaineering

Now let’s look at the basics of choosing a carabiner for mountaineering. The points are the following three.


[1] Gate type

[2] Pin lock and key lock

[3] Strength and durability


By suppressing the above three points, you can know the function you want more specifics. I will explain each one.



[1] Check the type of gate

Every carabiner has an opening called a “gate”. There are several types of gates, so let’s check them as well.


▼ Carabiner with a safety ring when belaying should not come off

Carabiner For Mountaineering 05, Shieldon

DMM “Belay Master (DM0336)”


A carabiner with a safety ring has a lock function on the gate. There are two types of locks, “auto-lock” that locks automatically when the gate is closed, and “screw gate” that locks manually.


Use this safety ring in “scenes where the gate must never be opened”.


▼ Free carabiner if you open and close the gate frequently

Carabiner For Mountaineering 06, Shieldon

oxtos “mountain Dax Discus Straight Gate (DK-04616)”


A free carabiner is recommended in relatively safe situations and when you need to open and close the gate frequently.


There are three types of free carabiner: “straight gate”, which prevents the gate from opening and closing by mistake, “vent gate”, which makes it easy to clip the rope, and “wire gate”, which has the widest sense of opening the gate.


[2] Check pin lock and key lock

Carabiner For Mountaineering 07 580x1024, Shieldon

Petzl “Jin (M060)”


The area between the carabiner and the opening and closing part of the gate is called the “nose”, and it is also important whether the shape is flat or has a notch. The one with a notch is the “pin lock”, and the one with a flat one is the “key-lock”.


The pin lock is easy to get caught by ropes, and the key lock is characterized by its excellent operability and high strength. If operability and ease of use are important, we recommend the key lock type, which is easy for beginners to use.


[3] Check strength and durability

Carabiner For Mountaineering 08, Shieldon

oxtos “mountain Dax Otoshin Double (DK-053)”


Some of the same carabiners are for mountaineering and others are not. When choosing a carabiner for mountaineering, make sure that the carabiner itself has characters such as “UIAA” and “CE” on it.


CE is proof that it meets the safety standards set by the EU, and UIAA is proof that it meets the safety standards set by the International Climbing and Mountain Federation. Don’t accidentally use accessories for mountaineering.


Expert advice

“It is safe to have several types dedicated to mountaineering.”

“How to choose a carabiner depends on what kind of use it is. If you use it instead of a hook, you can use an accessory type, but if you are climbing, you need to use a special one, and at the same time you need to check the load capacity before buying.”

“Also, it is necessary to prepare not only one type but several types. Especially in scenes where safety is important, a carabiner with a safety ring (lock) is required. If you buy it first, the free carabiner will be easier to use.”


Let’s choose not only usability but also safety!

Features vary depending on the product, such as shape and operability. Please choose the carabiner for mountaineering that you want, considering not only usability but also safety.


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